Buyers' Guide to Human Rights

Published by the Human Rights Action Service

438 N. Skinker Blvd. St. Louis, MO 63130 Tel. and Fax: 314-721-2977,

e-mail slhras@igc.apc.org web site: www.hras.com/hras/

July 1997

U.S. Company Tries to

Break Union in Nicaragua

Guess Action at Dillard's

When workers at the Cupid Foundations (CF) factory in Nicaragua, which makes women's undergarments for the U.S. market, formed a union, CF management resorted to intimidation and firing of union leaders in an attempt to destroy the union. CF's factories in the U.S. are unionized, but evidently the company does not recognize the same rights of free association and collective bargaining for its overseas workers.

Workers at CF make a base salary of about $40 per month. Because this is not enough for survival, they have to work many hours of overtime. In sworn testimony workers testified that they face harassment and long periods of work with no rest stops.

The union at CF was registered with the Nicaraguan Ministry of Labor in January of 1997. In April and early May, three union leaders were fired. Later in May, a meeting was held at the factory. Several workers stood up to say that they had been pressured to join the union and that things were fine in the factory.

In the presence of the Police Chief and a U.S. Embassy official who attended the meeting, CF officials collected signatures from workers on a document saying that they did not want a union. Three workers who signed the statement said later, "I have received threats, harassment and intimidation, that I would be fired if I continued to belong to the union." At the request of CF the Minister of Labor has canceled the union's registration. Twenty union members have filed a petiton in the the local court asking that the cancellation not be allowed. The union still has its legal recognition and could still be revived if management were to stop its attacks.

Action: Send a letter by mail or fax to: Mr. David Welsch and Ms. Marilyn Welsch, Cupid Foundations, Inc., 200 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016 Fax: (212) 481-9357

Tell them the story above and urge them to: Reinstate the three fired union workers (Eudice Poveda, Nora Cerrato, and Ana Julia Espinoza) and end the harassment of the union and allow organization to proceed. Send a copy of the a letter to the United States Ambassador in Managua: Lino Gutierrez U. S. Ambassador American Embassy Fax: (505) 266-9056 Managua, Nicaragua .

On June 11, 1997, in Las Vegas, Nevada, two hundred union activists marched on Dillard's Department Store demanding that the retailer take responsibility for the conditions of workers who make the Guess clothing it sells and an end to Guess?, Inc.'s use of sweatshops in the production of its clothing.

Guess was removed from the U.S. Department of Labor's apparel industry Trendsetter List last November after a series of investigations uncovered illegal industrial homework and violations of minimum wage and overtime laws at Guess contractors in Los Angeles. Guess is also under investigation by the National Labor Relations Board for illegally harassing, spying on, and terminating workers, as well as illegally relocating work to Mexico to thwart unionization efforts.

Cristobal Perez, a former employee, said, "I worked for a Guess contractor for six years and sometimes we were paid in cash and did not even receive the minimum wage. Many workers had to take work home. When we spoke out, Guess retaliated by pulling its work and we lost our jobs."

In late May, two hundred activists distributed leaflets at the South Coast Plaza Mall in Orange County, California, while Guess held its first Annual Shareholders Meeting nearby, to demand that retailers Nordstroms and Robinsons-May similarly take steps to end Guess' use of sweatshops.

To order a free 8 minute "Guess?" video in English and Spanish and for more information about the "Guess?" Campaign, contact Ginny Coughlin at the Stop Sweatshops Partnership, 1710 Broadway, New York, NY 10019.


Nike Releases Young's Report...

Labor Bureau Reports Illegal Wages

The June 25 New York Times carries a full-page ad from Nike quoting Andrew Young's June 24, 1997 report on Nike operations in Asia saying "It is my sincere belief that Nike is doing a good job...but Nike can and should do better." The portion of sentence that is missing from the ad says "in implementing its code of conduct." When you call the 800 number listed in the ad, you get a recorded messages that only quotes Young as concluding "Nike is doing a good job."

Young's report fails to address issues of low wages. In an interview he said he did not deal with wages because he is not an economist. During visits to factories he used Nike interpreters. Subscribers can examine Young's report on the internet at www.digitalrelease.com and enter keyword: "GoodWorks." HRAS will provide further analysis of the report in upcoming issues of this Buyer's Guide.

The following are excerpts from an article in the June 14 edition of the Youth Newspaper (Thanh Nien ), published in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam:

Widespread coverage by newspaper, radio and television journalists revealed that "Nike has raised the exploitation of poverty-stricken foreign workers to a fine and spectacularly remunerative art." (New York Times, March 31, 1997). In response to this negative publicity, several Nike representatives and high-level consultants visited Vietnam (Young's delegation) to assess the situation and to come up with plans for rescuing the company's image. Nike announced that it would increase wages by 10%. Sam Yang Vina Co. (Nike's subcontractor Dong Nai district) announced that the company had given workers a 8.6% salary increase. But what is the truth?

Have wages increased?

Reviewing figures for the period April through June of 1997 in the Dong Nai district, Vo Minh Quang, Director of Dong Nai Labor Bureau and Nguyen Dinh Thang, president of the Dong Nai Confederation of Labor reported: "These statements are incorrect. Most workers here in Dong Nai received at most the equivalent of $40 per month." This pay level is not even legal under Vietnamese law.

Paystubs from April from the Pouchen Co. (another Nike contractor) indicate that after overtime and bonus were added and company deductions subtracted one worker was paid $42.50 a month -- still less than the legally mandated $45.00 per month minimum wage. This worker's payroll deductions did not include social security or health insurance.

Have hours been reduced?

Before Nike sent its representatives to Dong Nai, the workers at four Nike contractors -- Tae Kwan Vina, Pouchen, Chang Sing, and Viet Vinh -- had to work 12- to 14-hour shifts. Now a company statement claims that shifts have been reduced to 8 hours: 7 hours of work plus a combined total of 1 hour for rest and lunch. What is the truth?

At Pouchen Co. which has 9,200 workers, employees worked 12 hours per night; now the work hours have been reduced to 9 hours per night (including two rest periods and 30 minutes for eating). The actual work time is 8 hours each shift. This is not the 8 hours per shift (including rest and meal) claimed by the company. According to workers, contractors are altering employee time cards to bring apparent hours into conformity with the company's stated new policy, making it impossible for the labor union and Nike representatives to find out the truth.


DO BUYS

Here are women's skirts made by union members in the U.S. (see June 1997 Buyer's Guide for dresses and blouses) Look for Union Label or the "Made in U.S.A." Source: May/June 1997 "Label Letter of the AFL/CIO.

Skirts: Andrean Avenuery, Allison Ann, Asher, BCCI, Bonnie Jean, Broadway Juniors, Careerlook, Catch Me, Chicago Trousers, Coco Bianco, Corbin's Country, DKNY, Easy Pieces, E R Gerard, Felix, Fundamental Things, Georgia Apparel, Haas, Henry Grethel, House of Ronnie, J.A.C. Plus, James River Trades, J.A. Resorts, Joseph Vincent, Julia Lauren, Koret, Learbury, Levi, L.L Bean, Maggie Sweet, Magliano, Mark of the Lion, Miss Victoria, Mustang, NU Look, Pendleton, Pierre Cardin, Play It Again, PSI, Rear End, Redwood, Ronnie Phillips, Sasson of Mustang, Setiage, Smart Lady, Sophisticates, Trheads, Time Zone, and 35N10.

Child Labor Rugmark Label

On April 16 the AFL-CIO and the U.S.A. Rugmark Foundation. launched the Rugmark campaign in the U.S. This label, checked on the spot, means that the hand woven carpet was not made by children under 14 and that the adults who made it were paid at least the minimum wage. This label also means that the carpet importers pay 1% of the import price to a fund for the education and rehabilitation of children who have had to work.

For more information contact:

RUGMARK U.S.A.

Phone: 202-544-7198